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Mitering Fabric How to Get Perfectly Pointy Inside Corners

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Miter and Mark the Top Casing

  • Cut the corresponding angle on the top casing, leaving the opposite side at least 1 inch overlong.
  • Check your miter at the second corner with your test pieces, and adjust if necessary to fit tight.
  • Mark the opposite corner on the top casing, cut it and tack it up.

The second step is by cutting the inside joint

  • The inside corner joint is also referred to as the coped joint. It cannot be said to be a butt joint because of the presence of a gap between the two baseboard pieces. To escape those gaps you are supposed to construct an inside joint.
  • Put one piece of baseboard against the wall at a right angle.
  • Set the other piece of board and place it down on the floor.
  • Hold and mold the scrap piece of the board perpendicularly and trace its profile by use of a pencil.
  • For you to find a reference point, this will help you to trail and facilitate the completion of the inside corner joint.
  • Cut and shape a 45-degree angle piece of baseboard by use of appropriate miter saw.
  • Rotate the angle to a clockwise direction till it is elevated to the left-hand side and towards the right-hand side of the machine.  Cut all through to create the best corner angle.
  • Cut along the profile and create a bevel cut and short a profile at a 90-degree angle. To connect and engage the cut trim together to identify holes and gaps in between the baseboards.
  • For best and smooth baseboard inside corner, trim accurately one of the boards, hold the other board straight and position it on the floor and allow it to connect with mating piece.
  • The final step is to remove the back bevel that will install a half round and other files till the boards fit the other with no gap.
  • Put some glue before you join the two baseboard pieces before you do finishing.Inside corners are places where 2 walls intersect to create a concave angle.
  • Nail your piece boards and ensure that the boards are correctly set exactly as when leaned to the wall.
  • It’s advisable to use 1.5-inch brads while closing the corners.

Mark the Reveal

  • With a combination square, mark a reveal line 3/16 inch from the edge of the jamb.
    • Pro tip: Use a sharp pencil and position the marks in the corners and about every foot along the jamb edge.

Step 2: Mark Your Crown Molding

Mark the “Top” and the “Bottom” of the molding on the FRONT of the molding.

Believe me, THIS IS NECESSARY! It avoids confusion later about what end you have up. And you’ll be painting the molding afterwards anyways, so writing on it will be just fine.

Basically, the Bottom of the crown molding has the wider flat base than the top (as seen in the pictures, I’m pointing to the BOTTOM of the molding).

How Is A Miter Saw Used?

Safety

Before you commence performing your woodwork tasks, ensure you are working in a clear, clean, and safe working area. Wear protective clothing including goggles for eye protection.

Operation

Most of the best miter saws are powered by the handles. The blades begin rotating when the handle engages are compressed. Ensure your baseboard pieces are safe and well supported by the best portable miter saw stand or table where necessary.

Baseboard cuts

Baseboard cuts

All marked and well-measured baseboards are supposed to be aligned accordingly. Hold the handles down to engage the blade at all means. With the baseboard piece still in position, lower the blade accurately in a chopping manner. Allow the blade to run through the board. To stop the blade, disconnect the handle. Remove your cuts and raise the blade when done rotating.

You can cut baseboard pieces at an angle by shaping or sliding the saw heads. Miter saws are different, but for shaping both inside and outside corners, it’s advisable to review the manufacturer’s instructions for your model.

Tips for Cutting Baseboard Inside Corner

  • Measuring and marking steps are very important. If you do this step wrong, all the following steps are “considered” abandoned.
  • The miter saw is essential. You can’t get a standard cut with a poor saw. If you want to cut fast and decisively, you need to invest in the best miter saw.
  • If the cut angle is not perfect as expected, you need to cover the difference with caulk or something like that.
  • You should focus 100% while cutting to avoid unnecessary mistakes.

INSTALLATION: baseboards

Install baseboard tightly to the floor or raised 3/8 in. using spacer blocks it you intend to install carpeting. Raising it allows more of the narrow modem styles to show and provides a place to tuck the carpet edge as well.

There are several ways to enhance your baseboard’s attractiveness. Buy your material in sufficient lengths to avoid splicing short pieces (see illustration). By planning the lengths needed you can also avoid waste.

   	Cut baseboard to rough lengths and set in plac
  1. Cut baseboard to rough lengths and set in place. Put nicest pieces in most visible areas.
  2. Mark baseboard and miter outside corner first. Draw lines along lower edges to help align cut.
   	Fasten with 6d finish nails, the top nail into
  1. Fasten with 6d finish nails, the top nail into a stud, the bottom nail into the sole plate. Pre-drill.
  2. Cope adjacent pieces with jig or coping saw and test fit. File as necessary to get tight joint.
   	Mark cut for butt joint with coped end tightly
  1. Mark cut for butt joint with coped end tightly in place. Add 1/16″ extra and cut to length.
  2. Bow baseboard slightly and fot ends, then push against wall. This clamps coped joint tightly. Nail.
Then, when cutting and laying pieces out, select t

Then, when cutting and laying pieces out, select the most attractive for the most visible spots. Hide the worst in the closet. If possible, use the same piece to “wrap” highly visible comers, so that the grain pattern continues right on through the miter. If you have to splice, select pieces with similar grain and color so the splice will not be noticed.

Begin installation with the most exacting pieces, the outside miters. Progress toward the easiest, the butt joints at the doors. Nail at the top into each stud (it helps to locate and mark these in advance) and at the bottom into the sole plate.

Fine cuts and sharp corners: master these basic cutting and installation techniques and you will be able to apply finish trim with expert accuracy.

Whether trimming out an entire room or simply repl

Whether trimming out an entire room or simply replacing an unsightly piece of molding, you really want that finish trim to look sharp. Baseboards, door casings, and window trim create much of the grace, accent, and individuality of our homes. The well-crafted older styles — wide, thick, and sometimes fanciful — stamped a specific character on each room.

But times changed, and our contemporary trim, much slimmed down and simplified, has a reduced impact. In fact, when carefully installed with crisp corners and tight joints, you’ll hardly notice modern trim. Rather than standing out, It tends to accent, outline, and frame a room.

However, let some joints loosen, or a miter fall to align and the trim pops back into View, with attention focusing on the poor fit.

It’s not difficult to solve this problem. To accurately apply finish woodwork you only have to master two basic cutting techniques, coping and mitering, and then follow the steps for installation.

Of course, there is no substitute tor experience, so practice these skills first with a soft wood like pine before moving on to a harder wood like oak.

Step 4: THE TRICK

So here’s the simple and EASY trick I learned so I could keep everything straight in my mind when cutting the corner angles…

OUTER CORNERS = LONGER TOP

INNER CORNERS = LONGER BOTTOM

I heard one guy say this to remember which is which: “You don’t want your daughter going OUT with a short TOP” so she needs a LONGER TOP to go OUT!

What does this mean? When figuring out which 45 degree angle to cut on, remember that if it’s an outer corner you’re working on, the Top of the molding needs to be longer than the bottom, and vice versa for inner corners.

When you get to a single piece that requires an outer angle on one end and an inner angle on the other end, this trick makes it easy to figure out which way to cut for both sides. Just take each side of the single piece as it’s own thought, and with this trick you’ll NEVER forget or confuse which way to cut it!

Simple idea right? Let’s put it into action…

CUTTING: coping inside corners

Using a coping saw and a jigsaw

  1. Outline shape to be cut on baseboard with scrap piece or follow the line on the trim face left by a miter.
  2. Cut outline with coping saw. Slim, narrow blade cuts on pull stroke can follow tight curves accurately.
   	Cutting with jigsaw is faster, although not as
  1. Cutting with jigsaw is faster, although not as flexible as coping saw. Tape protects baseboard finish.
  2. Test fit to scrap piece. File out fine details and bevel back side for more accuracy, and a tighter joint.
You can miter inside corners as well as outside, b

You can miter inside corners as well as outside, but you’ll find that inside corners frequently open up when nailed, leaving an unsightly crack.

Coping the joint solves this problem. The coped piece clamps the adjacent comer baseboard tightly to the wall, so that the adjoining piece need not be nailed. Then, nailing the coped piece holds both in place without forcing the joint open. Slick and clean.

As with miters. Bevel back the coped edge with a file to make a close fit (especially with more complex moldings). Experiment using both the coping saws and jigsaws. You’ll probably find both to be handy — the jigsaw for flatter pieces like baseboard and the coping saw for more elaborate moldings.

Safety Considerations

Although it may feel a little awkward, it is best to operate the saw blade with your "opposite" hand when the orientation of the baseboard requires it. It is possible to cut the trim upside down in order to always use your favored hand, but this can often lead to cutting mistakes. The best method is to position the baseboard on the saw in the same direction as it will sit on the wall. And NEVER cut "cross-handed"—by trying to operate the saw with your "good" hand while reaching across the saw to hold the baseboard with your other hand. This is a very dangerous practice.

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